Cox .049 & .051 Model Engine 5×4 Racing Propeller 049 & 051
$4.95 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns
Seller Store coxengines
(24910) 99.8%,
Location: Williams Lake, BC, CA
Ships to: US,
Item: 391479176486
Cox:Cox
MPN:Does Not Apply
Part:Propellers
For Vehicle Type:Airplane
Fuel Source:Nitro
UPC:Does Not apply
Cox .049 & .051 Model Engine 5×4 Racing Propeller 049 & 051
Satisfaction Guaranteed!
This sale is for one (1) Cox .049 / .051 Racing Propeller
Features:
5″ Diameter x 4″ Pitch
A high-performance prop for speed applications
Right-hand for clockwise (conventional) rotation
Brand new Current Production item(s)
Rotation as viewed from the pilot’s seat
Application:
All Cox .049 Engines
All Cox .051 Engines
STORE CATEGORIES
GUIDES
View our guides on your computer on any of our item listings:
• Engine Operation Guide
• Fuel Guide
• Diesel Engine Basics
• Engine Troubleshooting Chart
• Care & Maintenance Guide
Cox .049 & .051 Model Engine 5×4 Racing Propeller 049 & 051
Satisfaction Guaranteed!
This sale is for one (1) Cox .049 / .051 Racing Propeller
Features:
5″ Diameter x 4″ Pitch
A high-performance prop for speed applications
Right-hand for clockwise (conventional) rotation
Brand new Current Production item(s)
Rotation as viewed from the pilot’s seat
Application:
All Cox .049 Engines
All Cox .051 Engines
Shipping
Free shipping on additional items!
(Does not apply to some heavy and / or bigger items)
Shipping charge is based upon the item with the highest shipping cost.
Professional packaging as well as insurance to full merchandise value is included.
To get combined shipping
please add all items to cart before proceeding to pay.
All items will be shipped within one business day of purchase,
Returns
You may return merchandise for any reason within 30 days!
All returns must be unused, complete and in the same condition as shipped.
We will refund your purchase price as well as the shipping cost you initially paid us.
Reasonable return costs will be refunded if the item is not as described or defective.
However, it is important that you contact us beforehand to receive an authorization.
Contact
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ENGINE OPERATION GUIDE
You will need:- Small, external fuel tank (unless your engine has an integrated tank)
- Fresh, well charged battery (two 1.5 volt D cells with terminals soldered + to + and – to – or use a battery box) A 1.5v hobby battery would be fine. DO NOT use a battery over 1.5 volts; it will burn out the glow head.
- Glow head clip
- A model airplane fuel consisting of 15-25% nitro (35% for racing) and a minimum of 20% oil (at least 1/2 of that 20% has to be Castor oil).
- A propeller with a diameter of 5, 5½ or 6 and a pitch of 3 or 4
- Propeller screw & washer
- 2 Cox Wrenches
Optional accessories:
- Spring starter
- After-run oil (CoxLube or similar)
- Starter chicken stick or ½A electric starter (Electric starter not recommended / risk of breaking the conrod)
Starting your engine:
- Fill the fuel tank with clean fuel. This is self-explanatory and everyone has their own preferred method. If possible, use an inline fuel filter to keep the fuel clean. Keep all fuel equipment clean! If you are using an engine that requires an external tank, you should make sure there is fuel in the fuel line before trying to start the engine. There are several ways to fill the fuel line. One method is blowing lightly into the tank vent until you see fuel flowing through the fuel line.
- Turn the needle clockwise until it stops. Do not force it! Then, turn the needle 3 full turns counter-clockwise. Once running, you can lean the mixture by turning the needle clockwise.
- Squirt a few drops of fuel into either the top of the air intake, the carburetor or into the cylinder exhaust port. Close the opening with your finger and flip the prop over a few times.
- Use a fresh battery and connect the glow head clip to the top of the glow head (see drawing on page two). It is important that you prime the engine before connecting the glow head clip. Priming with the battery attached can cause the fuel to ignite and the prop to kick, potentially wounding your fingers.
- Turn the engine over by flipping the propeller. If your engine has a spring starter, simply wind the spring one turn clockwise and release. If your engine doesn’t have a spring starter, simply flicking the prop over vigorously (from right to left when facing the prop) works as well as anything else. If the engine fires but does not start, and there is not an excess of raw fuel flowing out of the exhaust ports, enrich the mixture by turning the needle a quarter turn counter clockwise. Repeat the starting procedure. If the engine runs but slowly bogs down, stopping with amounts of fuel appearing around the ports, the mixture is too rich. Lean it out by turning the needle a quarter turn clockwise.
- Once the engine is running continuously, remove the glow head clip. Play with the needle to adjust the setting to optimal RPM. Turning the needle counter-clockwise allows more fuel to pass through, and the engine will start to run rough or lumpy. You will see copious amounts of fuel and oil flowing out of the exhaust ports. Turning the needle clockwise will lean out the mixture, causing the RPM to increase. However, the RPM will only increase to a point, after which there is not enough fuel in the relation to air being absorbed; and the engine quits. It is a good Idea to run the engine a bit on the rich side, as this will promote longer engine life. Also, you don’t want to lean out the mixture fully on the ground because, once in the air, the engine tends to lean itself out and may stall if the setting was already very lean on the ground. Turning the needle counter-clockwise ½ turn from full RPM is a good compromise.
Connect Cox glow head clip wires to a 1½ volt battery or Cox battery box. Attach glow head clip to glow head.
Starting your engine (cont.):
- Sometimes (if you don’t have a spring snap starter) the engine may start backwards. You can either wait for the engine to run out of fuel, turn in the needle valve or you can stop it by pinching the fuel line. Reed valve engines can run in either direction (there will be more crankcase and drive-plate wear from excessive "pusher" use). If you have a pusher engine (usually has a brass drive-plate), you shouldn’t have to worry about wear between the crankcase and drive-plate through normal "pusher" use.
- A brand new engine should be broken in. Simply run the engine for one full fuel tank in a very rich mixture setting. Let the engine cool off and repeat with a slightly leaner mixture (higher RPM). Repeat once more at almost full RPM and you are set to go.
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Fuel Guide
Cox engines typically run on what is termed “A fuel”, a fuel with high nitro content and containing some castor oil instead of synthetic oil only. This fuel mixture is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain. Often, when referring to “A” in hobby shops, it will elicit blank stares. A fuel in loose terms is 15-35% nitro (a.k.a. nitromethane), 20% (castor) oil and the balance methanol (a.k.a. methyl alcohol, carbinol, wood alcohol, wood naphtha or wood spirits). Cox engines will run best on a fuel mix that contains 25% to 35% nitro, whereas the higher nitro content will lead to higher RPM’s but also leads to higher heat and a shortened engine life. The Tee Dee series are better suited to higher nitro content, whereas the basic production engines are best run with a lower nitro content. Operating your Cox engine with less than 15% nitro content might make adjusting the needle valve somewhat quirky.
The biggest challenge is finding pre-mixed fuel that contains castor oil, as most fuels sold nowadays contains synthetic oil only, which can lead to premature failure of the engine’s piston ball and socket. There are some “A” fuels on the market that contain 100% synthetic oil. DO NOT run your Cox engine on such a mixture.
Cox recommends a fuel mix containing 20% castor oil. Under strict racing conditions, as little as 5% castor oil (and the balance synthetic) is required to protect the engine for it’s short racing life but is not recommended for recreational flying, where longevity of engine life is desired. To be on the safe side, we recommend at least 10% castor oil and 10% synthetic oil. The upside of using a 50/50 castor/syn mix is that it will help reduce varnishing and leave less oil residue on the model.
For Cox engines with diesel conversions, you don’t use actual “diesel” or glow fuel. Instead you use a mix consisting of castor oil, ether and kerosene. A good diesel mix would have 25% castor oil, 40% ether and 35% kerosene (paraffin).
How do I obtain pre-mixed A fuel? The first place you should check would be your local hobby shop. If they sell A fuel, ensure it contains an appropriate amount of castor oil. If they do not, ask for fuel that contains castor oil. To obtain diesel, Diesel Doctor manufactures an excellent diesel fuel and it can be purchased from the manufacturer and other on-line stores. Please see the chart contained in this guide for a list of suggested fuel brands and where to get them.
If you cannot find fuel with castor oil, you can add your own! Simply purchase a good fuel with 25-35% nitro and low oil content. Purchase castor oil separately and add to fuel. It is recommended that you use a fuel chart or do the math to figure out how much castor oil to add to fuel. A Castor Oil Calculator is available @ www.coxengines.com/files/castor.xls (must have MS Excel 2003 or later to open / use it).
Can I mix my own fuel? Absolutely! Many modelers mix their own fuel. Mixing your own fuel allows you to make a custom mix for your application. Mixing fuel is quite simple and easy although finding some of the ingredients may not be as much fun. A “Google” search is likely a good place to start your search for the proper ingredients.
- Methanol can usually be obtained from outfits that supply fuel for race cars, or from chemical supply houses.
- Castor oil is available at off-road motorcycle shops, at grocery stores, pharmacies, etc. You will only require industrial grade castor oil and there is no need to purchase the more expensive medical-grade version. Klotz BeNol is a good choice and is available at motorcycle shops as well as online.
- Nitro is somewhat controlled and fairly difficult to purchase. Your best bet, again, is contacting outfits that supply fuel for automobile/boat racing or chemical supply companies.
- Ether in itself is a bit difficult to purchase, just like nitro. Try a chemical supply house. More expensive but an acceptable replacement, is starter fluid, such as John Deere.
- Kerosene is quite easily obtained at sporting goods stores, in their camping section. Use the unscented variety.
NoBrandWebsiteCountry AvailableOrder On-lineAdd Castor OilBrodak
25% & 35% Nitrowww.brodak.comUSAYesNoSig Champion 25www.sigmfg.comWorldwideYesNoRitch’s Brewwww.ritchsbrew.comUSAYesNoFitz Fuelswww.fitzfuels.comUSAYesNoDoctor Diesel
(Diesel engines)www.cafes.net/doctordiesel
USAYesNo -
DIESEL ENGINE BASICS
(This diesel engine guide is brought to you by Ian McQueen)
A model diesel engine is a "compression ignition" engine, physically the same as a glow two-stroke engine apart from the design of the cylinder head, and we’ll get to that part later.
One of the facts of physics is that if a gas is compressed quickly, its temperature rises. If the compression ratio is high enough and the compression rapid enough that very little heat is lost from the gas, the temperature achieved is high enough to ignite an air-ether mixture.
This ether (di-ethyl ether, once used as an anaesthetic) is a critical component of model diesel fuel because of its low ignition temperature. Typically it makes up 32% or more of the mixture.
The main power ingredient is kerosene (or jet fuel, which is more highly refined). It has more energy per unit volume than ether. The ether is required to ignite it. The rest of the fuel is lubricant, usually castor oil. It is much better if there is also 1.5 – 2% of an ignition improver like the amyl/hexyl/octyl/iso-propyl nitrate. This makes starting easier, makes the engine run more smoothly, and reduces loads on internal parts by reducing the compression ratio required to run the engine.
Those are the fundamentals, but they don’t begin to explain the advantages of a diesel engine. I consider the biggest feature of a diesel to be its great flexibility, its ability to turn a large variety of propellers. Why this is important leads first to a discussion of propellers.
Propellers
A given engine can drive a propeller of large diameter and low pitch or one of small diameter and high pitch. A large-diameter, low-pitch prop moves a large volume of air at moderate speed and provides high thrust.
It is like low gear in a car: lots of pulling power, but not able to move the vehicle very fast. And a small-diameter prop turning at high speed provides a high-speed blast of a relatively small volume of air. It is like high gear: it doesn’t have the thrust to get the car moving from a standstill, but can drive it to high speed once the car is moving.
On a racing plane, a large, low-pitch prop would scarcely get the model flying. On a slow-flying model, a small prop turning at very high speed would generate very little thrust and would have difficulty getting the model moving.
For a slow-flying model, the optimum large prop will be turning at a relatively leisurely pace, say 6,000 – 11,000 rpm, while the smaller prop of a fast model will be going a zillion rpm. Converted from metric, a zillion might be 11,000 up to more than 30,000 for racing. In any case, the pitch must be high enough to move the plane at the intended speed when it is turning at the speed that the engine is able to turn it.
Glow engines are usually designed to develop their power at quite high rpm, say 11,000 to 15,000 rpm or more. They are happiest with relatively low loads, in the form of props with relatively small diameters. If loaded down with a large prop, they may overheat due to pre-ignition. Here’s a brief description of why.
In a glow engine, the fuel will begin to burn at a fixed point on the upstroke (with some caveats). With a suitable, relatively small, propeller, this point will be such that the engine fires at just the right time so that the maximum pressure is reached just at TDC.
If you put a large prop on that engine, it will still fire at exactly the same point on the upstroke. However, the higher drag of the prop is causing the crankshaft to turn more slowly and prevents the piston from moving as quickly. The result is that maximum pressure will be reached before the piston reaches TDC.This is pre-ignition and puts a strain on all moving parts of the engine: the piston crown, piston pin, con rod, and crankpin. It can often be heard as a pinging or cackling, and the effect is that the engine will overheat. It can be seriously damaged. (Note that the fuel in a properly-operating engine "burns" very rapidly, but it is still burning. It does not "explode" or "detonate". Those words describe undesirable pre-ignition.)
A diesel, on the other hand, can turn the ordinary props used on glow engines at very respectable speeds, but it can also swing larger props because the ignition timing can be varied so that the fuel begins burning at just the right point on the upstroke, just as the spark is timed precisely in an automotive engine. How is this done?
A model diesel has a screw of some kind in the head. (There are a few exceptions, but they’re not important.) It pushes against a contra-piston, a movable "plug" inside the top of the cylinder that forms the top of the combustion chamber. Pushing the contra-piston down with the screw decreases the volume and thus increases the CR, so the point on the piston upstroke where the required temperature is produced is lowered. This advances the timing.
Conversely, turning the screw out allows the contra-piston to be pushed farther up the cylinder when the piston rises and the trapped gas presses against the bottom of the contra-piston. (Sometimes it sticks, but that’s one of the things that make diesels so interesting!) Raising the contra-piston lowers the CR and retards the timing so that a larger prop can be driven with no risk to the engine.
To show the effectiveness of this control, the people at PAW once put a huge 18-6 prop on a PAW 35 engine and started it. It could turn only 3500 rpm, but it ran for five hours straight with no damage to the engine! The test was stopped just because the people wanted to go home.
To vary the ignition point of a glow engine it is necessary to try different glow plugs, install or remove head shims to reduce or raise the compression ratio (in effect, a glow-engine is a glow-assisted diesel!), and play around with the percentage of nitromethane in the fuel. Compare this with merely turning the compression-adjusting screw of the diesel engine.
Other advantages:
In addition to the greater flexibility of a diesel engine vis-à-vis glow, a diesel offers the following other advantages:
- lower noise level
- more pleasing, more "masculine" sound quality
- longer running time on the same volume of fuel
- no need to buy glow plugs or batteries
- a certain aroma that is guaranteed to identify the modeller as a real "diesel man"
STARTING AND ADJUSTING FUEL
The fuel consists of kerosene for power, ether to ignite the kerosene, lubricant, and an ignition improver. Here are some notes about the ingredients.
Lubricant
There have been many fuel formulas, with oil content ranging from 12% (for racing in ABC engines) to 33% (old "British" formula). Recently I saw up to 40% for breaking in the MP Jet engine, but that seems really high!
In the typical diesel, with an iron (Meehanite) piston and hardened steel cylinder, the minimum oil content recommended
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